Saturday in L.A.--Part One--Alvera Street

Last Saturday Nancy and I drove up to the big city, L.A. to visit her brother Bert and his wife Kris. We usually just see them at family gatherings, and Nancy thought it would be great if we drove up to spent a day together and play tourist. We stopped at Pipe's cafe in Cardiff at about 9 am to stock up on caffiene for the trip, and we were off! The old Mercedes cruised along at 75 most of the way on an open freeway, so we made good time and were in Hawthorne just before 11 am.

After picking them up at their apartment in Hawthorne, our first stop of the day was to be lunch and shopping at Alvera street in the Spanish/Mexican historical center of L.A.. It had been 18 years since we had lived in the L.A. area, and while we remembered all the great places around town, we always didn't remember the most direct route to where they were, so when we got off the Harbor freeway downtown, we were almost amazed to find that we had picked the right exit, and were just a block or so from the central plaza in the historical district. We found parking near the plaza just across the street from the old Pio Pico hotel, which was now used as a historical society museum, and headed for Bert's favorite taco stand on Alvera Street.

It is one of those places which hasn't changed much in the last 30 years. Bert and Nancy's parents always took them there on outings when they were kids. It was almost like going on a trip to Mexico. Although the "street" is only about a half block long, it is packed with colorful shops and restaurants and has always reminded me of the touristy alleys in the "Rosa" district of Tijuana.

It seems to exist only for the tourists! But even for those who live in L.A., a visit now and then is fun! Most of the stuff in the shops is leather goods made in Mexico, with lots of colorful serapes, blankets, and trinkets that get the kids all excited.

Our first stop had to take care of the growls and give us a blood sugar bounce before attacking the shopping stalls. So we stood in line at Juanita's taco shop and waited for a table. When one opened up, Nancy made a beeline for it, but was cut off at the aisle by an older lady who had just arrived. Nancy had a word, and she stepped aside! When it comes to Mexican food, get out of Nancy's way!! We all ordered combination plates, which were delivered within about 5 minutos.

Nancy says the tacos and taquitos on Alvera Street are the best because they crisp them up a bit in hot lard! They were crispy, and I'm sure they were lardy too! It seemed like it only took about 5 minutes for us all to down the tacos and beans, and the small bit of salad which made up the "combo"!! Just what they like at restaurant with only 5-6 tables, fast turnover!!

As we walked down to the end of the street after our quick but tasty lunch, we passed Nancy's favorite taquito stand. She had been telling me about the taquitos there all week, so as we walked by, I suggested that she should order a small plate there or she would regret it! So she and Bert each had a chaser of taquitos swimming in green chile sauce. Kris and I just stood by while they overate!

Now to shopping!!

Kris bought a nice bag to carry her books and "stuff", and Bert bought a small leather coin purse. Nancy saw some things she liked, but knew she didn't really need, so passed on them.
While all this shopping was going on, I spent time just sitting in the sun watching all the people saunter by. I am always amazed at all the different shapes, sizes and colors that people come in!
Sitting on a bench on Alvera street on a Saturday is like going to a free form play, with the street as a stage, and an international cast that ever changes.

I sat on a ledge next to a shop which sold mostly tourist trinkets. There was a big basket of wooden articulated snakes right next to me, painted only as they would be in Mexico! One five year old boy came up to me and asked how much they were. I told him I would sell him one for a quarter!! His dad was right behind him, and of course, he knew I was not the one his son should be talking with, and grabbed him by the hand to remove him from the temptation provided by the snake! We shared a smile! I do think he would have bought one for a quarter, though. I thought that was about what they were worth!

Older people shuffled by, some looked very frail, and I thought that they must be on a tour bus from somewhere out of town, and just had to see as much as they could in the time they had left on this earth. I wondered if they had bought a colorful shirt that said Los Angelos on it, or a big straw sombrero with Mexico stitched on the brim as reminders of the fun they had on their visit.

To the kiddie set running between the small shops on the street, it must have looked and felt like a carnival filled with colorful prizes for knocking down a bottle with a ball, or popping a balloon with a dart. There were no games to play, but the prizes were all there to be purchased!
And at the end of the street near the plaza there was a "fake" donkey on which to sit to have your picture taken with a sombrero jauntily flopped on top of your head!

Roaming the restaurants on the street were two small mariachi groups who sang outside the patios and then passed the hat. They looked experienced but not prosperous! On a good day they must have made a few hundred dollars to share. They got a small contribution from me!

As we escaped from the shops and entered the plaza area, there was a girl in a clown costume selling balloons just across from the fake donkey, and an amplified trio of musicians was about to start a small concert and were setting up their equipment and microphones. It was almost 2 pm but looked to be alot of action ahead for the rest of the afternoon and evening at Old Los Angeles on Alvera Street.

A large banner which hung on the old hotel showed a fully bearded Pio Pico dressed in a wainscoat and fancy tie. He had welcomed us when we came in, and now he bade us adios as we walked back to the car to head for our next adventure at Exposition Park.