San Francisco--Across the Golden Gate--Day 2

FARLEY'S

Friday was our second day all together in the City. Surprisingly, it was another bright, sunny morning in a city known for grey skies. I was first up and out, making my way up the street to Farley's for some of their nice strong coffee and a scone with lots of butter and jam. I was not the first customer that morning, and some other early riser had been nice enough to leave a copy of the day's Chronicle for me to read. ( I also left it in good condition, but with the crossword completed. I wonder how many readers it had during the day,and if they were disappointed that the crossword was completed!) In about 30 minutes Nancy joined me with her double cappachino and muffin, and preceded to write the latest thoughts of her adventure in her journal. Since I had allready consumed the paper, she mentioned that there was a row of journals on the adjacent shelf where guests could write comments or produce some art. I picked up a couple and paged through noting that most of the pages were filled with poorly done drawings, some comments, and some crayon work by children. There was an occasional page where visitors wrote some nice words about the heavy caffiene content of Farley's brews.
I found a reasonable looking journal with mostly blank pages and proceeded to create a three stanza poem describing the bright morning sun, the city as seen from the hill on which Farley's (and I) was perched, and my excitement and anticipation of the day before me! I signed it not so creatively as "A Visitor from San Diego". I'm sure that many who read it in the future will wonder why someone from "sunny" San Diego would come to San Francisco and write an ode about "sunny" San Francisco! San Francisco's mood is supposed to be cool, foggy, misty, wet, with umbrellas, raincoats, hats, and a muted romanticism personified by the towers of the Golden Gate probing above a fog bank rolling into the bay. I think that Nancy was probably disappointed with the weather while we were there, and would have much preferred the need for an umbrella at least part of the week!

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE

We headed back to the apartment a bit after nine, and both Matt and Sara were almost up and ready to go. Sara wanted coffee, so it was back to Farley's for a quick stop. Our plan for the day was to drive over the Golden Gate Bridge (GGB) to Sausalito, get some takeout for lunch, and drive to Muir Woods to eat under the redwoods. Our designated driver loaded us up and headed across town towards the bridge. I had a map, and trying to be a good designated back seat driver, made some very excellent suggestions regarding what looked like the best route to take across town. My suggestion was quickly derided by the designated driver, who was fully supported by her mother, to whom I then gave the map! After driving wildly up and down hills in the general direction of the the other side of town, we soon were on Rte 101 north heading to the Presidio and the GGB. It now costs $5 to cross the bridge, but only when you are coming in from the north. Going out is a free ride. That's something to remember! On the north end of the bridge is a big parking area with great views of the bridge and the City across the bay. There were tour buses, lots of cars, and a pile of people walking around taking pictures of each other with digital cameras, so they could "spam" them to all their friends when they got home to prove they were actually there! The designated driver made me go back to the car to get my camera, and I joined the crowd. (Unfortunately, since I was the photographer during the whole trip, I have no pictures of myself to prove that I actually am writing this memoir from my own memories!)

We looked hard at the bridge for awhile, viewed the west side of Alcatraz, visited the very fine restrooms, and piled into the car to our next stop at Sausalito.

SAUSALITO AND MUIR WOODS/BEACH

It had been about 30 years since I had last been to Sausalito, and as we drove into town it was hard to remember what it had been like back then. My impression was that it had been a bit touristy, but still quaint and village-like, with a seaside beachy feel. The bay ferry makes a stop here, but I suppose today it mostly brings tourists or perhaps some boat owners who may have their private boat moored at the marina. It still has a village-like feel to it, but in 30 years the main street has become just an upscale tourist destination filled with shops selling art, trinkets, and things to eat. It is probably a nice ferry ride, but otherwise I didn't think it was worth a visit anymore. We did find a nice deli which had good sandwiches, and loaded up for our picnic stop at Muir Woods which was next on our intinerary.

Muir Woods is only a few miles west of Sausilito. It is probably the most visited redwood grove in the world, and is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. GGNRA is the largest urban National Park, emcompassing 76,500 acres. It includes Alcatraz Island, the Presidio, Cliff House, Ocean Beach, and Stinson Beach and more! As we cut inland off of 101, it became more mountainous and the road became more nauseous, weaving back and forth as it snaked into the back country. With the designated driver tailgating the row of cars in front of us, and taking the curves ala Mario Andretti, riding in the back seat provided good excercise for my abs, alternating tenseness and relaxation, tenseness and relaxation, as she wheeled and braked around the curves. Since I had earlier gave up giving guidance, I just endured!

As we approached Muir Woods we noted a sign stating that the first parking area was full--which I thought was odd for a Friday! I could not believe that the pile of people could extend so far out into the countryside. We passed a sign that said "Stinson Beach", and the designated driver said that she always wanted to go there. "That's where they have great white sharks!", she said.

So the decision was made to go onward and share our lunch with the great whites! In a mile or so I saw a sign that said "Muir Beach Overlook" and said "Turn in there". To my surprise the designated driver actually took my suggestion and whipped the wheel left up the entry road. We entered a parking lot high on the cliff overlooking the ocean, and I noticed a number of picnic tables. A perfect place for lunch! There was an outhouse, picnic tables, four old WWII gun and observation bunkers, a friendly local yellow lab, and a path out to a viewpoint overlooking a beach far below. The wind was blowing a bit, whitecaps were pitching over the bows of a few boats a mile or so off the coast, and the sun was sparkling off the spray whipped up by the wind. Best of all, there were only a few other people in sight! The sandwiches were to big to eat in one setting, but good. Matt ate all of his! The lab got all the scraps. (He roamed from table to table, laying underfoot looking for opportunities)

STINSON SHARKS!

Stinson Beach was another 5 or so miles down the road. It was a nice surprise! A quiet place this time of the year. Very out of the way, and yet a big, long beautiful beach that must be very crowded during the summer months. We stopped and walked a bit on the beach, and read the warning signs regarding the Great White (Someone was killed in 6 ft of water a couple of years ago). We shopped through the few funky stores in the little downtown area. There was a very nice art gallery filled with quilts and the work of local artists. Nancy got the lowdown on all the good quilters and quilt stores in the north bay area.

I was drawn to an old guy who had an small outdoor flea market--more like a garage sale. Next to his chair was a half empty bottle of bourbon that occassionaly fueled his sales pitch. I ended up buying a set of matching 1950's bedroom lamps with period shades for $10. (originally $20). I am a sucker for a deal! With all the shopping activity by Nancy and Sara, mine was the only purchase! Taking action is such a guy thing! So Stinson Beach was a worthy destination for a day trip out of the city!

CHINATOWN, MY CHINATOWN!

It all started in 1848 when two Chinese men and one women arrived in San Francisco on the American Brig, Eagle. Then in 49 there was the gold rush. and then the railroads..., and now San Francisco has the largest Chinatown outside of Asia.

Our plan for the evening was to eat in China Town and have an after dinner drink in North Beach. So we headed back to the GGB, paid our $5 toll coming in, and the designated driver barrelled over hill and dale to China Town, where we drove around looking for the one open parking space on the street. We finally gave up and when we saw a sign for a parking ramp, deciding that ten or so bucks for parking for the evening didn't seem so bad, considering the alternative of driving around for an hour. Plus, we were on vacation! It was in the budget!

We walked up and down and around China Town. Nancy and Sara shopped, and Matt wandered in and out of a few stores as well. Sara and Nancy each bought a silk billfold, and a couple of small silk coin purses. Matt was looking for something for his girlfriend--but didn't find anything worthy. I just stood around outside the stores fascinated by the variety of people moving up and down the street. Everyone who takes a trip to the west coast usually starts or ends in SF. And they all go to China Town. If one listens and observes, all languages sooner or later pass by on the street.

We had dinner at a well known "middle class" place on the fringe of China Town and North Beach called Lichee Garden on Powell St. Nancy found it in one of her dining out books. It was a very reasonable family style place filled with chinese families eating very large plates of all kinds of good chinese food, and drinking 7UP poured from 1.5 liter plastic bottles! We ordered a pot sticker, egg rolls, the highly recommended egg foo yung, sweet and sour pork, a beef dish, and chow mein with pan fried noodles. Nancy and I split a bottle of wine, and Matt and Sara had Chinese beer. How did I remember all that?It must have been memorable! It filled the table and us too!!Surprisingly, we managed to devour most all of it, although we did take home a couple of boxes of leftovers that we ended up leaving in a trash bag at the apartment! Even the fortune cookies were good, although the fortunes were pretty bland!

CITY LIGHTS

To walk it off, we hoofed it down a couple of blocks and spent some time at that famous bookstore, City Lights. It is right across the street from the Condor Club (I remember Carol Doda topless) in the heart of North Beach. I found a stool to sit on, and looked at a few left wing radical publications while the rest of the left wing radicals in the family wandered about looking for something to sooth their literary souls.

North Beach is a great place to walk at night just because of all the action. Lots of cafes and night spots, and of course, lots of people. But it is not just tourists--many locals as well! It's a date place! We stopped at a cafe, got a table at a window, and I had a double expresso which should have kept me awake all night, but didn't.

So day 2 covered alot of territory, from Stinson Beach to North Beach! Give me some rest!